Development of the Double Breasted Suit
Double breasted suits have been one of the most well-known and strong outfits in men’s fashion for a long time. They are known for their formal look and classic style. These suits have caught the eye of the fashion world for many years. With their front flaps that angle and two lines of buttons, double-breasted suits have a great style that mixes elegance and fashion. These suits started in the military uniforms of the 19th century but became very popular in the 20th century. This was especially true in the 1930s and 1940s when menswear was very stylish. Lately, these suits have come back strongly. They are now important items in modern wardrobes and a must-have for any gentleman’s closet.
This article explores the history and development of the double breasted suit. It also talks about why it is important today. Plus, it gives tips on how to wear it stylishly and feel sure of yourself.
The Origins and Growth of Double Breasted Suits
Origins in Naval Tradition
The double-breasted suit comes from the military and naval clothing of the 19th century. It was first used in the reefer jackets worn by British Royal Navy officers. These jackets were made to keep sailors safe from bad weather at sea. They had a double breasted front with two rows of buttons and a flap at the front. This design helped block the wind and keep the body warm. Over time, the style moved into everyday fashion, especially in places where people needed warm and stylish coats.
The Golden Age of Menswear (1930s-1950s)
The double breasted suit really became popular in the 1930s and 1940s. This time is known as the Golden Age of menswear. Men started to see the suit as a sign of power, style, and social rank. Hollywood stars like Cary Grant, Clark Gable, and Humphrey Bogart often wore double-breasted suits in their movies. This made the suit even more attractive. During this period, suits had wider shoulders, a fit around the waist, and a shape that showed strength and confidence.
World War II strongly affected fashion, including the double-breasted suit. During the war, there were not many materials available. Limits on fabric made styles simpler and more practical. Even with these rules, the double-breasted suit stayed popular. It looked more minimal but still kept its classy feel.
The 1950s was a time when the double-breasted suit became very popular again. Businessmen, politicians, and others wore it to seem important. These suits featured wider lapels. They were made to show off the chest and shoulders, making the person look broader and more powerful. During this time, the suit became linked with being successful and having a high status.
The Fall and Comeback of the Double Breasted Suit (1980s-1990s)
As the 1960s and 1970s brought a more relaxed take on fashion, the double-breasted suit lost its appeal. People started to prefer softer, single-breasted suits that matched their more informal lives. However, in the 1980s, the double-breasted suit came back. This was partly due to the rise of the “power suit” trend. The newer style of the double-breasted suit usually had five buttons and was made popular by designers like Giorgio Armani. He made a version that was looser and more comfortable. This suit became a sign of power and success, especially for business leaders, politicians, and finance experts.
In the 1990s, the double-breasted suit changed a lot. It now had slimmer cuts and sharper lines, which were part of the bigger fashion trend. Even though it came from the past, the suit still was seen as a piece of clothing for power. At the same time, designers started to try new fabrics and styles.
The 21st Century: The Return of Tailored Elegance
In the early 2000s, the popularity of double-breasted suits dropped again. Men’s fashion was moving towards more casual and modern styles. Recently, these suits have become popular again. This change is due to a growing interest in vintage and classic menswear. Today’s double-breasted suits have slimmer cuts, narrow lapels, and high-quality fabrics. This makes them appealing to younger people. This modern version of the classic design is good for many occasions. You can wear it to formal business meetings or casual social events.
The comeback of the double-breasted suit is happening at the same time as people are moving towards tailored clothing. More men want bespoke and custom-tailored suits. This style has become popular with men who care about being unique and high-quality work. Designers like Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren, and Thom Browne are bringing this style back by using new fabrics, colors, and cuts. They make the double-breasted suit feel new and exciting.
Understanding the Design: Structure of Double-Breasted Suits
A double-breasted suit has a unique design. Knowing its important features helps us appreciate its classic charm.
Button Configuration
A double-breasted suit is marked by two rows of buttons. These buttons make a wrap at the front of the jacket. There are several typical button styles, such as:
- 6×2: This is the typical layout. It has six buttons in total, but only two work.
- 6×1: This is a more casual type of the 6×2, with just one button that works.
- 4×2: This is a smaller and modern design. It has four buttons, with two of them being functional.
- 4×1: This is a simple type with four buttons, but only one of them works.
The 6×2 style is usually thought of as the most formal. In contrast, the 4×2 and 4×1 setups feel more relaxed and modern.
Lapels
Lapels are a key part of double-breasted suits. Peak lapels have sharp angles that point towards the shoulders. They are the most popular choice for these suits. These lapels add to the strong and bold shape of the suit. On the other hand, shawl lapels have a smooth, rounded edge. They are often used in double-breasted tuxedos or evening suits. This style gives a softer and more elegant appearance.
Fit and Silhouette
Double-breasted suits are usually more fitted than single-breasted ones. They focus on making a clean and sharp shape. These suits often have a slimmer waist and wider shoulders. This design highlights the wearer’s figure. Today’s double-breasted suits are tailored to have a modern hourglass shape. They enhance the chest and narrow the waist.
How to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit
To wear a double-breasted suit with style, keep a few important tips in mind.
Fit is Crucial
The fit of a double-breasted suit is very important. It should feel snug but not too tight, especially around the shoulders and waist. A good suit fit lets you move easily while looking sharp and neat. Pay close attention to how it fits around the shoulders. A suit that does not fit well can look bulky or boxy.
Buttoning Etiquette
When you wear a double-breasted suit, it is important to button the right number of buttons. Never button more than two. This will help keep the suit’s shape and make it look neat. If your suit has a 6×2 style, always button the middle button. For 4×2 or 4×1 styles, button only one button.
Match the Occasion
The double-breasted suit is often seen as formal wear, perhaps for a wedding or other special event. However, it can also work for less formal times. For a smart-casual look, wear your double-breasted jacket with chinos or dark jeans. For more formal events, pair the suit with nice trousers and shiny leather shoes.
Mind Your Accessories
To keep the focus on the suit, choose simple and basic accessories. A pocket square, a classic watch, or a tie are great options. Don’t add too many accessories, as this can take away from how sharp the suit looks.
Why the Double-Breasted Suit Endures
The double-breasted suit is a classic piece of clothing. It has changed a lot over the years. Still, its main traits of style, masculinity, and class have stayed the same. Right now, the double-breasted suit is more useful than ever. It is worn by everyone, from business leaders to fashion fans. Its comeback in today’s fashion shows that it still holds charm. It mixes old-tailoring methods with new ideas. Whether for work, formal events, or casual gatherings, the double-breasted suit remains a sign of good taste, strength, and elegance.
